How an Arab Leader Inspired Cartier's Most Iconic Watch

Morocco has long captivated the world with its rich cultural heritage, striking architecture, and centuries-old traditions. From intricate tilework and vibrant textiles to ornate geometric patterns, its visual language has inspired generations of artists, designers, and luxury maisons. While Morocco’s influence is often traced through fashion and interiors, its imprint on high horology tells a quieter yet equally compelling story—one that begins in Marrakech and culminates in one of Cartier’s most iconic timepieces: the Pasha.

This story does not unfold through the familiar lens of designers enchanted by Moroccan craftsmanship, but through the life of a formidable historical figure. Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakech, rose to prominence in 1912 during the French protectorate and became one of the most powerful and wealthy men in Morocco. Through strategic alliances with the French administration, El Glaoui amassed vast landholdings, mining rights, and extraordinary influence. His wealth was legendary. Historian Maâti Monjib noted that he controlled thousands of hectares and tens of millions of francs across Morocco and France, earning him the title “Lord of the Atlas” from Hubert Lyautey, the French Resident-General who governed Morocco on France’s behalf.

The Pasha’s lifestyle reflected his immense power. He lived in lavish palaces adorned with European furniture, Baccarat crystal, and ornate silverware, hosting diplomats, artists, and royalty in salons that blended Moroccan grandeur with European refinement. Winston Churchill, a frequent guest and admirer of Marrakech, stayed with El Glaoui and painted several works during his visits. Every detail of the Pasha’s life was designed to project authority, taste, and excess.

By the early 1930s, at the height of his influence, El Glaoui’s daily rituals revealed a practical problem. He was known for long baths and frequent swimming habits that did not align with the delicate wristwatches of the era, which lacked water resistance. In 1931, he turned to Louis Cartier, grandson of the brand’s founder, with a request that would make horological history: a watch that could withstand water without compromising elegance.

Cartier’s response was revolutionary. The maison created a round gold watch featuring a screw-down case, a protective metal grid over the dial, and a crown cap secured by a delicate chain—elements that balanced technical innovation with refined design. Crafted in solid 18-carat gold and engraved with the number one, the bespoke timepiece was both a symbol of power and an early triumph of waterproof engineering.

The original watch’s fate remains unknown, but its legend endured. Decades later, that singular commission would inspire the official launch of the Pasha de Cartier collection in the 1980s, during a turbulent period for the watch industry. Drawing on the mythos of the Pasha of Marrakech, Cartier transformed a private commission into a global icon.

Today, the Pasha de Cartier stands as one of the most recognizable watches in the world, celebrated for its bold round case, distinctive crown cap that was designed to look like El Glaoui cap, and unmistakable presence. Its influence has extended beyond watchmaking, even inspiring a fragrance line bearing the same name. More than a timepiece, the Pasha embodies a fusion of Moroccan heritage and Parisian luxury—a reminder that some of the most enduring designs are born where culture, power, and craftsmanship converge.

Follow us on:

Instagram

Tik Tok 

YouTube

Make sure to share this post and subscribe to our newsletter to receive notifications on our latest posts, as well as exclusive content and much more!